Saturday, 20 June 2015

Craftsy Class Creative Darts and SeamlinesMcCalls 6696

I've been working on this class for a really long time. After two wearable muslins of the A-Line dress I think I have the fit sorted on this which I can transfer back to my sloper. Why did a custom drafted pattern take so long to fit? Who knows, maybe I didn't measure well. The areas where I had problems were the armholes. In the moulage draft it didn't look right. I cant remember exactly when but some point she has you use an industry standard measurement of placing a new bust line. This put this much too high and made my armhole too small. Is this method unsuited to ladies with larger busts? I'm not sure, possibly I just did it wrong. Suzy replied to my questions very promptly and was really helpful. So now I think I have it in this simple dress:

I took the sleeves from McCalls 6696, and altered the armhole by making a 1/2" armhole dart, which I left unsewn for a bit more ease as directed in the sleeves drafting course which I am yet to embark on. I thought going through this process would mean no more fitting, but I was wrong. You have to be able to fit to draft patterns, and if you have an unusual proportioned body in any way it is going to throw up problems in any method of making clothes. All my clothes, me-made or shop bought feel or look awkward in the sleeves. I often have extra fabric around the front arm hole and not enough room to move, more specifically play the double bass in.
This class gives directions for many garments, many of which are very fitted, which doesn't really suit my life in a very hot country. This is one of the looser fitting patterns, there is also a swing line top and baby doll line pattern. No finishing details are given like necklines or closures.
This dress is made in fabric called crepon de coton from les coupons de Saint-Pierre. This shop is in Paris but despite the delivery still fantastic value and quality. I couldn't work out what to do with this fabric for ages and then ordered some double gauze from and discovered it is almost the same, slightly heavier but still light and drapey. I could then look up what other people were making with this and I knew it needed to be used in something loose and unstructured. I took the neckline from a pattern that came free with a magazine ages ago. 
So now I'm over the hardest bit I hope? I'm going to make this again in something firmer to test the fit again, hopefully it will still look ok, then maybe try and draft some sleeves, although I've run out of enthusiasm for this process a bit now, it is so time consuming!